Recipes

Maitake Mushroom Tempura

Suggested Pairing: 2022 Vigneron Chardonnay

Pabu in San Francisco is Chef Michael Mina’s ode to Izakaya-style dining in San Francisco’s Financial District. We can’t think of a more hunger-inducing image than a glass of Vigneron Chardonnay and a gorgeous heap of deep-fried Maitake mushrooms. Chanterelles and Oyster mushrooms work well too if Maitake are unavailable. 

For the tempura (serves 2) 

• 1 large cluster of maitake mushrooms (around 2 cups) 
• High smoke point oil, such as canola, vegetable, or rice bran, for frying 
• 1 cup all-purpose flour 
• 1 cup ice-cold water 
• 1 large egg yolk (optional, for a richer batter) 
• Salt, to taste  
• For the tentsuyu dipping sauce 
• 1 cup dashi stock (can be made from instant granules) 
• 1/4 cup soy sauce 
• 1/4 cup mirin 

Instructions 

1. Prepare the mushrooms. Gently break the maitake mushroom cluster apart with your hands into large, bite-sized pieces. Avoid washing the mushrooms, as excess water can cause the oil to spatter; simply brush off any dirt. 
2. Make the dipping sauce. In a small saucepan, combine the dashi, soy sauce, and mirin. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer over low-medium heat. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. 
3. Heat the oil. Pour 1–2 inches of cooking oil into a deep, heavy-bottomed pot. Heat the oil to 340–350°F (170–175°C). Use a kitchen thermometer to ensure accuracy. If you don’t have one, test the oil by flicking a drop of batter into it; it’s ready when the batter sinks slightly before immediately floating to the surface. 
4. Make the tempura batter. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolk (if using) and add the ice-cold water. Stir gently. Add the flour and stir with chopsticks or a fork until just combined. The batter should be lumpy and not perfectly smooth—overmixing will develop gluten and result in a chewier, less-crisp coating. 
5. Fry the mushrooms. Dip each piece of maitake mushroom into the cold batter, letting any excess drip off. Carefully lower the coated mushrooms into the hot oil. 
6. Cook in batches. To prevent the oil temperature from dropping, fry the mushrooms in small batches. Cook until the tempura is light golden and crispy, about 2–3 minutes. 
7. Drain and serve. Use a slotted spoon or spider to transfer the tempura to a wire rack or paper towel-lined plate to drain excess oil. Season immediately with a pinch of salt. 
8. Serve immediately. Serve the maitake tempura hot with the warmed tentsuyu dipping sauce on the side.  

Chicken with Morels in Vin Jaune

Suggested Pairing: 2022 FORGERON CHARDONNAY or 2023 PINOT NOIR

Ingredients

• 1 chicken, cut into 6 pieces
• 3 finely chopped shallots
• 1 cup vin jaune wine *
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup chicken stock
• 5 oz rehydrated morel mushrooms OR 1lb fresh morels, both cleaned of all grit
• Salt & pepper
• 2 oz clarified butter for frying

Method

1. Heat a Dutch oven pot to medium-high.
2. Brown the pieces of chicken on all sides in clarified butter, then set aside.
3. Lower heat and brown the shallots for 5 minutes.
4. Deglaze with vin jaune wine and add back the pieces of chicken and poultry stock.
5. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes.
6. While simmering, sweat and then fry the morels (cut lengthwise) in clarified butter.
7. Remove chicken pieces and set aside on a plate.
8. Add cream and the fried morels to the pot and reduce for at least 10 more minutes.
9. Adjust seasoning to taste and put the chicken pieces back in the pot to warm for plating or presentation at the table. Garnish with a little parsley if you like.

* Pro Tip #1: Vin Jaune is tricky to find and expensive. You can substitute Savagnin or Chardonnay from the Jura, or, in a pinch, a mix of crisp, dry white wine and fino sherry in a 2:1 ratio.

* Pro Tip #2: Save the remaining Vin Jaune to serve to your guests in small port glasses, and pair with small slices of Comté cheese and marcona almonds in lieu of dessert.